Why does Eyebrow Permanent Makeup Turn Red
- Julia Rozgon
- Nov 2, 2024
- 4 min read
Updated: Mar 13
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DIFFERENCES IN COLOR TONE
Compared to organic pigments, inorganic pigments appear more natural and less vibrant. For example, red iron oxide has a muted, brick-like tone, unlike the bright, organic red. Similarly, black iron oxide is less saturated and not as deep as Carbon Black.
To create inorganic eyebrow pigment formulations, only two pigments—red and black—are often used (which would not be possible with organic pigments). By mixing them in different proportions, various shades of dark brown are achieved, ranging from warm to cool tones. The addition of yellow or white oxide expands the palette, allowing for the creation of lighter shades.
STABILITY AND CHALLENGES OF RED IRON OXIDE
Many people believe that eyebrows can turn red over time due to black iron oxide transforming into red within the skin. However, this is a misconception. In reality, red iron oxide (CI 77491) is more durable and stable compared to black iron oxide (CI 77499) or yellow iron oxide (CI 77492). This means that as the pigment fades over time, if a formulation contains a high concentration of red pigment, it may become dominant.
On one hand, the stability of red ensures warm tones remain visible for an extended period. On the other, it can persist in the skin long after black and yellow pigments have faded.
It may seem like an easy problem to solve—manufacturers only need to carefully control the red oxide content and avoid exceeding the necessary amount to prevent a shift toward red over time. However, the reality is more complex.
THE ROLE OF BROWN OXIDES IN PIGMENT FORMULATIONS
You may have noticed that pigment ingredient lists sometimes include Brown 5, Brown 6, and Brown 7.
On one hand, these are standalone brown pigments with their own CAS numbers (Global Automotive Substance) and unique CI codes (Colour Index: 77488, 77489, 77490). On the other hand, they are blends of red, black, and yellow oxides in varying proportions.
✔ Brown 5 (CI 77488)
Primary component: Yellow iron oxide (CI 77492)
Additional components: Red iron oxide (CI 77491) and black iron oxide (CI 77499)
Characteristics: Since yellow pigment is typically dominant, this pigment produces warmer brown tones.
✔ Brown 6 (CI 77489)
Primary component: Red iron oxide (CI 77491)
Additional components: Yellow iron oxide (CI 77492) and black iron oxide (CI 77499)
Characteristics: Red iron oxide dominates this pigment, making it more prone to turning red over time.
✔ Brown 7 (CI 77490)
Primary component: Black iron oxide (CI 77499)
Possible additional components: Red iron oxide (CI 77491) and yellow iron oxide (CI 77492) in smaller proportions.
Characteristics: Typically used for creating cooler brown shades, Brown 7 is considered more stable against red shifts compared to Brown 6.
However, the formulations of these blends are commercially protected trade secrets, meaning they do not have fixed ratios, and their shades can vary significantly between different raw material manufacturers.
WHY DO SOME BROWN PIGMENTS BEHAVE UNPREDICTABLY?
PMU pigment manufacturers often prefer ready-made brown blends instead of creating brown pigment compositions from scratch, as this is more convenient and cost-effective.
However, because the exact formulas of these blends are proprietary, they lack precise ratios, leading to color variations between different raw material suppliers.
As a result, PMU pigment manufacturers often list individual color indexes on product labels—such as black (CI 77499), red (CI 77491), and yellow (CI 77492)—instead of the CI codes for pre-mixed brown blends.
This contributes to the unpredictable behavior of brown pigments, making them difficult to fully understand not only for end users but even for manufacturers themselves!
METHODS MANUFACTURERS USE TO PREVENT RED SHIFT OVER TIME
✔ Traditional method – Adding green pigment. According to color theory, green is complementary to red and helps neutralize it.
✔ The most commonly used green pigment is Chromium (III) Oxide (CI 77288), which is highly stable and long-lasting. If a pigment formula is well-designed and the manufacturer has extensive experience while strictly following the production process, this can be an effective solution.
❗ Risks: If the formula is not well-balanced, the green pigment may remain in the skin longer than the red, leading to an overly cool, grayish-green brow color.
✔ If brows turn very ashy or grayish-green after 3 or more years, it is likely due to the influence of green chromium oxide.
WIZART MAIN PALETTE – THE IDEAL SOLUTION TO PREVENT RED SHIFT
WizArt is one of the few companies that has implemented innovative technology to eliminate the risk of eyebrows turning red over time.
In the MAIN palette, instead of unstable black iron oxide, stable Carbon Black is used. This completely prevents unwanted color shifts to red tones.
POPULAR WIZART COLORS
✔ Fashion Blond – A neutral shade for blondes and light brown-haired clients.
✔ Sexy Brown – A neutral, medium-intensity brown suitable for dark blondes, light brunettes, and medium brunettes.
✔ Real Brunette – A cool, dark shade ideal for brunettes and darker-haired clients.
KEY BENEFITS:
✅ Inorganic pigments are stabilized with Carbon Black, preventing red shift over time.
✅ Easily and quickly penetrate the skin due to a specialized hydrophilic base.
✅ Do not turn gray over time, unlike organic or hybrid pigments.✅ Fade into natural, soft gray-brown shades.
✅ After 1.5–2 years, only a slight pigment residue remains, which can be refreshed easily without removal.
✅ Can be removed with a laser in a single session, without shifting to orange, red, yellow, or any other unwanted tones.
✅ Suitable for both powder and hair-stroke techniques.
✅ Certified compliant with REACH safety regulations.
SUMMARY:
The risk of red or grayish-green eyebrows is often tied to the composition of the pigments used in PMU. Unstable black iron oxide and high concentrations of red iron oxide contribute to the issue, while green chromium oxide, if not properly balanced, can leave an undesired gray-green effect.
By using stable Carbon Black and precise pigment formulations, WizArt ensures long-lasting, natural brown shades that do not turn red or gray over time.
For the best, most predictable healed results, choosing a pigment line with stable and well-researched formulas is crucial—and WizArt delivers exactly that.
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